Gonaïves – The City of Independence

A great starting point for your exploration of Gonaïves is the Place d’Armes – a large public square in the center of the town where Haiti’s independence was proclaimed on January 1, 1804.

Here, you’ll find two iconic monuments that are closely associated with the city: Cathédrale Du Souvenir (the Cathedral of Memory) and l’Obélisque (the Obelisk). These structures are a testament to Gonaïves’ rich history, including its important role in Haiti’s fight for independence.

In addition to its historical landmarks, Gonaïves is a vibrant and lively city. Its streets, such as Avenue des Datte, buzzing with activity and offering a glimpse into the daily life and culture of the city.

You’ll notice a wide range of neighborhoods and urban landscapes as you explore the streets. From chaotic areas filled with motorcycle taxis, colorful taptap busses, and haggling street vendors, to peaceful and quiet quarters, this city offers something for everyone.

One of the things that makes Gonaïves so unique is its rich history. Its public squares and landmarks are a reminder of the city’s past, and the stories that are inscribed in every brick and paving stone.

But Gonaïves is not just a city of the past – it’s also a city of the future. Its young people, playing and laughing in the city’s parks and playgrounds, are a reminder of the hope and promise that lies ahead.

To truly experience the beauty of Gonaïves, it’s worth venturing outside of the city. One of the highlights is a trip to the stunning salt marshes of nearby Morne Lapierre. Here, the salty waters glisten in the sunlight, creating a breathtaking landscape. The high salinity of the seawater and the constant exposure to the sun make this region one of the best places in the country for the production of sea salt.

The market square is another must-see for any visitor to the city. It’s a vibrant hub of activity, where the various aspects of daily life intersect and come together. The square itself is a chaotic and colorful mosaic, filled with the sounds, smells, and sights of the city.

The pavement is crowded with street vendors, taptaps, and motorcycle taxis, all vying for attention and space. And yet, despite the commotion, there’s a sense of warmth and community here. The cheerful faces of the people, chatting and laughing with one another, give the market square its soul and character.

Gonaïves is also a major center of Vodou pilgrimage, home to two of the country’s largest lakous: Lakou Soukri and Lakou Souvenance. Each year, these lakous attract thousands of pilgrims, tourists, and curious visitors who come to experience the annual festivals and the unique rituals and traditions of Vodou.

The concept of lakou is one of Haiti’s oldest cultural traditions. It’s a place where the faithful live in community, and while daily life at the lakou is not much different from elsewhere, there are certain rules and customs that must be followed in order to preserve the ancestral practices of Vodou.

Lakou Souvenance is located about eleven kilometers north of Gonaïves. This ancient lakou, over two hundred years old, is a place of great spiritual significance for the Vodou community. Its ancient walls and gates, worn and weathered by time, speak to the centuries of traditions and rituals that have taken place within its boundaries.

For the visitor, a trip to Lakou Souvenance is a glimpse into a world of spirituality and tradition that is unlike anything else. It is a place of great beauty and mystery, where the past and the present come together in a unique and powerful way.